The first landing point on Procida,
the Marine Grande port, also known as “Sent’Co”
– an abbreviation of Sancio Cattolico, after
the important role it once played as the religious
Headquarters for all of the island’s sailors
– is not a natural port. It is the side
of the island closest to the mainland where the
Procidans erected their homes, painted in a rainbow
of colours. Arriving on the island, in fact, visitors
find themselves before a colourful conglomerate
of Mediterranean architecture with Arab influences,
in particular the imposing Palazzo Merlato, dating
back to the 1600s and with its beautiful arched
terrace visible opposite the dock.
This Palazzo and the other dwellings form the
most notable landscape of Procida. The homes which
line the port, largely built in the 16th century
and featuring beautiful iron balconies, form a
cheery atmosphere of colour enhanced by the clothes
which hang to dry in the sun and the characteristic
vefii, or terrace balconies with large arched
windows without glass which form a type of landing
or covered terrace where local women stand to
examine the sea, waiting for the arrival of boats
or their men.
Beneath these houses with typical arched windows
and high balconies overlooking the sea, served
by characteristic, long and narrow staircases,
are fish shops, bars, restaurants and pizzeria
which transform the port into the most lively
landing and meeting place at morning and night.
Along the marine are two religious symbols of
particular importance for Procidan sailors: the
wooden crucifix dated 1845 and the Chiesa di Santa
Maria della Pieta’ (Church of Saint Maria
of Pity), erected in 1760 upon a chapel dating
back to 600 A.D, also called the Church of Sailors
because it was founded by the Pio Monte dei Marinai,
an association which offers assistance to sailors
and their families.
The beautiful and large piazza in front of the
chuch, a stage for almost all of the folkloric
events on the island, represents the border between
the commercial and tourist port where one finds
the glorious Francesco Carracciolo Nautical School,
created 170 years ago and renowned as the most
ancient establishment of its type in Europe, where
he Sea Museum is also located. Nearby was once
the Hotel Victory, whose most famous guest was
arguably Alphonse de Lamartine, author of the
novel Graziella, the heroine daughter of a Procidan
fishing family and the typical image of beauty
on the island.
